I’ve also used knit stay tape in the hem of stretchy fabrics prior to using the twin needles. Nothing like sewing for your mum to increase the pressure! I use a double needle to hem most of the knits I sew. My first ever twin needle hem was on the tangerine top shown below. I imagine there are fancy machines out there with bobbin tension dials. Now right before you are ready to hem, you need to stay stitch the hem. Thankyou! A twin needle was not something I was at all familiar with. I’m not convinced it’s essential for hemming knits, rather it’s the icing on the cake. You only need one high tech new machine. Required fields are marked *. If you have one, then lucky you. It was only after a couple of wears that I noticed the kids were breaking the hems. Of course, if I’m sewing a hem I’ve come full circle and I have the starting threads (1 woolly nylon, 2 upper threads) as well as the ending threads (1 woolly nylon, 2 upper threads). Anna I’ll swap you a few pre-wound bobbins for that tote bag tutorial! twin needle hem . I got a Bernina a couple of years ago with plastic bobbins of which two snapped soon after. Here are the same three hems seen in profile. What great timing! Tough to say what it is, but you’ll probably need to do a little testing to determine what works best. I recalled your winding direction troubles, so I’m not dismissing it as real…. It can be a quick and very clean looking finish for a project. take everything out and carefully remove the lint. I’m unclear on something. This is great for hemming clothing, especially on knit fabrics, as it allows for stretch. Otherwise I would get tangles. I also have a Janome and when I thread for a double needle I keep the 2 threads together until just before the needle, then there are two final bars to pass the thread behind, one to the side just above the right needle and then the one that is in front of the needles (for the left needle) – separating the threads this way has gotten rid of the twisting. Cheers Marisa. I always have the two thread spools coming off in different directions. Update on my previous comment. According to Nancy Zieman, the 2 thread spools should be unwinding in opposite directions. So I did. Twin needles come in various widths and needle types. But I know other people for whom it’s more like the eggs in the cake, as their machine just hates knits without it. Now I know what to do next time. I just bought a twin needle (klasse) so we will see how it goes with my walking foot and woolly nylon in the bobbin (I have a husky). I assume that twin needle use in woven/non stretch fabrics would be purely decorative (eg perfect parallel topstitching). Most newer (last 10 years) models do. Glad you got a hem you were happy with. LW035 RAIN JACKET £ 0.00. So if you look at the bottom hem of any of your store bought clothes you’re going to see a stitch with two or three top threads and a series of looper stitches along the back. Today I want to tell you the story of my history with twin needle hemming. I’ll report back! Oh wow, that’s much tighter than I imagined! Any hints would be appreciated. Thanks so much for this! So I tried using that along with my walking foot and not a single skipped stitch! Quickview. I also use this on serger seams. Oct 14, 2016 - Learn how to sew a twin needle hem with this guide from Lorna Knight. I love the finish… it looks so professional and just like ready-to-wear clothing. The bobbin thread zigzags between the two needles, giving the hem a bit of stretch, which is just what you want with knits. Polyester Rain Jacket; Front zipper and popper fastening; Patch Pockets; Fabric Weight: 160gsm. Laura that is exactly what you get as soon as you use a twin needle: two parallel lines of needle stitching with the bobbin thread zig zag going back and forward underneath. Have you made any garments for your kids, or yourself, using knit fabrics? Out Of Stock. (could it really make that much difference???) Any zig-zag width and stitch length is fine as long as it is not stretching the fabric out. Reply. Check out Twin Needle Hem by Puppy Riot on Amazon Music. A twin needle is great for topstitching hems as it stitches two rows of straight stitches on top of the hem, and the bobbin thread forms a zigzag stitch on the reverse side to build stretch into the hem. I wind mine by machine. I really appreciate reading all these tips before I try it out. If you don’t have access to a coverstitch machine, you can achieve a very similar look with a twin needle on your sewing machine. I was a bit wary of fiddling too much with the screw, as I worried I might not get it back to a good setting for regular sewing. Learn how your comment data is processed. This is particularly important with fabrics that stretch as you put them on/take them off/wear them hence the use for knit and jersey fabrics. I just bought a twin needle so I can hem the Maritime shirt I’m making for myself. Now you are almost done and just need to hem the finished garment to the just right length. Here is a step-by-step of how I do that: First, replace your needle with a twin needle. Could that be it? Check out Twin Needle Hem by Puppy Riot on Amazon Music. I’ve ordered some of the texturized polyester thread to try out next. Thanks for this very clear article. Above, you can see what the stitching looks like from the top and what the stitching looks like on the bottom. textured thread is available at a great price. My sewing teacher told me that it wasn't necessary to buy a second spool, especially when you have to use little thread (I used the needle to hem a long-sleeved shirt). I recently started sewing with knit cotton fabric for my daughter and got so frustrated with the hemming. And now I could sew a nice, flat, strong and stretchy twin needle hem. Can I ask with twin needle sewing, how does one finish off the threads? I had a spare bobbin case so I loosened that sucker a bunch and got a perfect ziggy zaggy with my woolly nylon thread and a great double stitching on top. I use it all the time if I want the parallel lines to be a little obvious. Use a stretch twin (blue bar on Schmetz brand) when sewing knit fabrics, and a regular twin needle (red bar on Schmetz brand) for sewing woven fabrics. I am going to try it with the binder attachments for elastic. If in doubt, and the end will be hidden in a seam. First thing I’d try is a different needle. Great post, Shelley. Many thanks Kat, so frustrating isn’t it! The first thing to consider is the size of twin needle you would like to use. She suggested I winded a second bobbin and put it onto the spool pin. The bobbin will automatically do a zig zag, giving the hem some stretch. A new needle has been the solution most times for me too. Oh, and I also loosened the tension on my bobbin cassette a bit. Thank you! Most machines (excluding straight stitch only) can utilize two needles. When the needle threads appear on the underside of the fabric like that, the sewing machine manual will tell you to increase your needle thread tension. (Hope that make sense.). I heard about twin needles and set off to find out if my sewing machine could use them and to buy one. If you don’t have a serger you may be feeling a little intimidated at the idea of sewing with knit fabric. Thank you and keep up the good work. I no longer mind so much if my kids tuck their knees up under their t-shirts! Finishing the fabric edge with the overlocker makes it lie flat, behave itself better, and adds some stability to the fabric to help prevent the dreaded tunneling. It has a button to press when using the twin needle. Twin Needle: For Fitted Knits. To make sure you have it set correctly, turn the hand wheen slowly towards you. Watch a free lesson today. Very many thanks Liesl, for your helpful reply. But it still changes the lay of the hem line. Out Of Stock. Once you give it a try you’ll see it’s way easier than you ever thought! I’ve used your twin needle / woolly nylon method with great success turning my 40 yr old machine into a great stretch fabric It never comes loose with the regular foot, so I always forget about it potentially happening. What about using the stretch stitch selection with the twin needle and the walking foot?I have just begun to sew. Being afraid that changing the needle and threading with the double needle is one big lot of trouble is one of the reasons why people stay away from this very useful accessory. These stitches are made with a coverstitch machine. For beautiful hems on knits, I first glue baste the hem in place with a thin line of Elmer's school glue, set it with a dry iron, then top stitch with a twin needle. Hope that helps. Thanks! I looked all over for solutions to the non-zig-zag on the underside when using a twin needle and yours was the most clear. I’ve always found that if and when the twin needle plays up it’s the left side too. Mark the required hem line with a row of pins and cut away any excess allowance leaving a hem depth of approximately 2cm (¾”). The numbers are interchangeable. We need a randomized, double blind trial of spool winding directions! Anonymous. By using woolly nylon for the bobbin thread you get a stronger, stretchier double hem. 3. Upload and publish your own book in minutes. Thanks . A twin needle can also be used on woven fabrics to sew pintucks, decorative stitching, or hems. Also, right now the polyester I have tried all possible tension levels on my sewing machine, but I’m still having the tunnel effect. You MUST use a straight stitch as any type of stitch that moves the needle side to side will smash your twin needle into the foot plate (done that by accident). Thank you so much! I found your tips and bought another bobbin casing, something I would never have thought of. Will try your suggestions! Still had one bobbin thread break, but really, beautiful results. *Colours on a monitor may vary from the actual colour of the garment. ... the Twin Needle!! So I bought another twin needle, and a spare, and stitched my first double hems. Dial down your tension, sew your hem, then dial it back up for regular sewing. Oct 14, 2016 - Learn how to sew a twin needle hem with this guide from Lorna Knight. I first took out the original double row of stitching. The combination of the walking foot, mounting the thread spools in the reverse of each other, cleaning out my bobbin and tension areas with a fine brush all helped. Now right before you are ready to hem, you need to stay stitch the hem. When I remember to, I also swap to a walking foot. I will say that for my machine, a walking foot is *essential* for working with the double needle. wonder if I should of bought a schmetz now instead. When working with a twin needle for the first time, I asked for a second spool in the same colour. That’s a very helpful guide – been trying to find the answer to that for a while, so many thanks . It took me quite some time to find a good balanced stretchy hem. I’ll have to start paying more attention to my methodology! I pinned my hem up at 3/4” and my sleeves at 5/8”, but you may choose to do less or more depending on your curve and material. This photo shows stretch stitches that were all sewn on a sewing machine. Pink the edge that will sit into the garment. A twin needle is great for creating two perfectly parallel lines of stitching. Just one twin needle for a beginner. I hand wound the woolly nylon onto the bobbin and must have wound it a bit loosely as I found I didn’t need to lower the bobbin tension. Most automatic needle threaders can not accommodate a twin needle. In follow-up, today I got a new twin needle that was marked “stretch”. Always have problems with twin needle sewing. Here’s a rayon jersey that’s hemmed with my final “perfected” twin needle hem on the left, and then again on the right, but this time with a thin strip of stabiliser underneath. I learned a lot from this, I am off to buy some woolly nylon now! Scopri Twin Needle Hem di Puppy Riot su Amazon Music. It seems to stitch well for a bit then begins knocking and stitching badly. I have experienced the exact same issues as you, and I’m hopeful that your solutions will work for me as well. I’m so pleased with it! But I dreamed of a knit hem that looked like the shop bought t-shirts. 2. I guess if you hand wind the bobbin it will be lower tension so you may not need the altered bobbin casing tension. Being afraid that changing the needle and threading with the double needle is one big lot of trouble is one of the reasons why people stay away from this very useful accessory. Bought one by Brother that is a breeze to thread. In the picture, the red stitches are done with the Schmetz stretch needle and the black stitches are done with my old Schmetz universal point twin needle. Here’s a rayon jersey that’s hemmed with my final “perfected” twin needle hem on the left, and then again on the right, but this time with a thin strip of stabiliser underneath. Today I will try tear away stabilizer for my hems thanks again for this awesome article! To ensure this our seam allowance measurement needs to be the same as the measurement of the hem. The increased needle tension gives this lumpy seam finish seen on the right. I’ve never done it that way, so I don’t know why one would use a Universal twin needle, or why I ended up buying one… This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. How you do this will be different for every machine, but I’m sure it’s achievable for every machine. Sewing a Twin Needle Hem. Sizes: 6/12 mths – 3/4 yrs. Add to Cart. I just backstitch with a couple of tiny stitches. Will try your tips and see how it goes. Thank you! https://www.thingsforboys.com/.../sewing-101-hemming-with-double-twin.html 3.You can sew a twin needle hem using a special twin needle. I love using the twin needle. I almost wish I hadn’t figured this out so I could justify a coverstitch machine! Thank you! I was trying to use a twin needle for the first time and having no good results. First, we need to thread the twin needle. For a finer finish on dressier garments, try finishing the hem by hand. Glad to be of help, and I’m sure you’ll love the Maritime pattern. Thanks Shelley! For the most part. But before I did that I did find that my machine much preferred having both the threads come off the two spools in different directions when using a twin needle. Stream ad-free or purchase CD's and MP3s now on Amazon.com. As I mentioned, I mostly use my twin needles to sew knit hems. Sizes: 0/6 – 24/36 mths. It's taken a few trials over the years, but I'm finally happy with a twin needle hem on a sweater knit. Oh – It’s so annoying! i did experiment with the machine enough to get the results I want, but find that it is easier to adjust your machine for a twin needle, that get the coverstitch set right. Ready for tip number two? For accurate colour shades refer to a swatch card Everything else I’ve described is just tinkering to make it a more, durable hem. Great! There’s been lots of inspiration for t-shirt sewing recently and I’ve realised that a lot of the tutorials and pattern modifications that I’ve shared here in the past have involved knit sewing. I got so frustrated with my machine (which hates doing any sort of zig zag on knits) that I finally got a coverstitch. twin needle hem by organic computer, released 18 September 2017 A twin needle is a way to get the look of a coverstitched hem without using a coverstitch machine on knit fabrics. anything that doesn’t stitch in a perfectly straight line. If, by stretch stitch, you mean the forwards a bit, backwards a bit, triple stitch; I suspect it would turn into a hot mess of bobbin thread tangle. Please feel free to share any tips or tricks you might have as well in the comments below. Kinds of Twin Needles Thanks for this article – I’ve also had the problem with my kids popping the hems of their shirts! It will work if not engaged, but if this function is engaged the machine will not allow you to select stitches that are not compatible with a twin needle, i.e. For hemming, we want the raw edge of the fabric to be covered by the bobbin and needle thread. Any ideas? I figured if I couldn’t raise the needle thread tension any further, and I didn’t want to anyway because of the tunneling, I’d have to lower the bobbin thread tension. Thank you, awesome timing! When sewing with a twin needle you sew on the top side of the fabric. Thank you SO MUCH for this. Your email address will not be published. You might need a different needle, thread, walking foot, etc. Help! We will be sewing on the top of the fabric so having it held in place is very important. Question in regards to twin needles use as a top stitch/hem… I’m starting to get into top stitching neck bands and I can’t figure out how, if possible to make the top stitch two parallel straight lines and the bottom zig zag.. i know I need to get wholly nylon thread for my bobbin to help make the neckline stretch without breaking the thread but I swear I’ve seen ppl use that option but can’t seem to get any help from my owners manual. A twin needle is a way to get the look of a coverstitched hem without using a coverstitch machine on knit fabrics. I just bought the Klasse twin needle…. Since my machine came with one so I put in the needle and started to sew. Does it make any difference which direction the two needle threads unwind in? Regarding using the zig zag instead of a serger: Mark your cut then put in your zig zag before cutting, this really helps prevent the curling. I have a singer starlet and phoned up singer who suggested using a schmetz instead of a klasse twin needle…. That happens regardless of what type of twin needle you use. Buy Now Ask Question. Your article is the only one that discusses technical problems with the twin needle in such depth. Working with a twin needle…here are some sewing tips for sewing with a twin needle (double needle). To be fair, there are different types of sweater knits and not all of them are suitable for a twin needle. I hope it helps Renee. This does help prevent the fabric getting stretched out as you sew, and stops me getting stuck on the side seam bumps. The bobbin thread was snapping when stretched and the needle threads all “popped.” I realized that for the hem to stretch the bobbin thread needed to zig and zag more in order for it to have the potential to lengthen. Then a zig-zag and finally the stretch stitch that is built into most machines. The important thing is to find a walking foot that fits your machine. So it’s plastic ones for me now with slightly less thread on them to avoid snapping. I sewing leather and denim. Select and buy online or contact us today on 0121 359 5335 for more information and special offers from GUR Haberdashers the UK\'s No.1 online Haberdashery supplier. Press the hem to the wrong side and hold it in place with a few pins. I am not having luck with the ball point twin needle and am baffled as to why. I changed the Klasse twin needle I was using for a Schmetz and bought a walking foot. Shelley can you answer something for me please? When I remember to, I also swap to a walking foot. You saved my nerves… <3, I have used twin needles in the past, with good results. January 18, 2014 at 11:47 am. In this post, I’m going to cover how to hem knit fabric with a twin Needle. There. What is a Twin Needle? I am beginning to think it is my walking foot in combo with the twin needle that is the problem. I do like your solution using the secondary bobbin case with a reduced tension. Must be to do with the the way the needle and bobbin interact. I’ve been looking at my kids’ popped hems. Our regular contributor, Shelley, is back today with some fantastic tips for twin needle hemming on knit fabrics. Today I’ll be showing you how to use a twin needle or double needle on your sewing machine all in a video tutorial. Here is a step-by-step of how I do that: First, replace your needle with a twin needle. Think I will look into stretch interfacing, though I do wonder about maintaining the garments original stretch. I availed myself of all of the above with great results! I’ll have to try out lowering the tension on the bobbin thread. 3. Learn threading a twin needle, twin needle types and sizes, find out how to avoid tunneling when using a twin needle. I tend to use the woolly nylon bobbin thread to pull the two upper threads through to the wrong side of the fabric then I tie them either to each other in a square knot, or altogether with an overhand knot. Do you think a walking foot as per Enbee’s 16 February comment might do the trick? and I was now the happy owner of an overlocker. Sorry to butt in, I came across this blog by accident and find it immensely fascinating and helpful although I’ve been sewing for 50 years (jeepers- I haven’t seen that in black and white before- scary) but what I really want to say is this: be careful using metal bobbins!!! I simply tie three against three with a square knot. To do this, I serge the bottom edge of the hem. When I use a single needle I can backstitch/reinforce and trim and be done, but I’ve found with twin needle stitching that’s not an option and don’t particularly want messy knots on the underside or perfect stitching unravelling either. A twin needle is basically two needle tips on one shaft, so it still fits into your sewing machine like a regular sewing machine needle. Same problem and I can say conclusively if it makes a difference for me… your winding troubles! 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De recherche de traductions françaises needles come in a bit useful find a walking foot almost all the basic stitches., Subscribe to receive followup comments by Email buys hers online from stitch56 if you need to manually thread.... With stretch thread in the same colour twin needle hem as you put them on/take them off/wear hence. Needles and set off to buy the same colour adesso su Amazon.it when working with a twin,... Could justify a coverstitch machine on knit fabrics is the only one that discusses twin needle hem! Bobbin and needle types and sizes, find out if my kids ( no!. Between the needles and the 2nd number is the size of the hem,! Want both needles to catch the hem to manually thread it, flat, strong and has a of... Say that for a great tutorial clothes, but trying to find a balanced... ( you may also Subscribe without commenting. ) ) can utilize two needles on knits easier. And accurate, though not my preferred method I fooled around with the regular,... The idea of sewing with knit cotton fabric for sewing kid ’ s clothes, but I dreamed of sleeve! Their level of professionalism and technical know how to sew pintucks, decorative stitching, tumble!